I’m getting ready to start an adventure – one that will hopefully help me love my curly hair! It’s called the Curly Girl Method and is from Lorraine Massey’s book “Curly Girl: The Handbook.” You are supposed to trade in the shampoo and heat styling for conditioner and gel. Getting started though has been proven a bit challenging due to the fact that it’s like speaking a whole new language! I may have taken one weekend to try and figure out the terminology so I know there is no way that I can be alone in this. So here it is, in no particular order, on the things you need to know when starting the CGM so you can understand what the heck the ladies in the Facebook group are saying or when following the Curlies on Instagram:
What is your curl type? Here is a handy visual for you to determine that!
What is your hair porosity?
Porosity– Porosity is the quality of being porous, or full of tiny holes. To check the porosity of your hair, place a piece of shed hair in water and submerge it just a smidge. If it floats, it has low porosity. If it hangs out in the middle of the water, it is even porosity. If it sinks, it has high porosity.
High Porosity- this means you need protein to fill the holes due to the cuticle being open (this is mostly for color treated and heat damaged hair). OMIT HEAT – that’s right, go without diffusing if you can. Use a leave-in conditioner every other day to retain moisture and prevent your hair from drying out. Deep condition weekly or bi-weekly. Be sure to balance protein with moisture.
Medium Porosity – your hair has the perfect balance of protein and moisture so keep up the good work!
Low Porosity- this means your hair is unable to hold moisture due to the cuticle being closed, so you need ultra-moisturizing products (but your hair also won’t absorb mineral oils really so avoid them and stick with avocado oil or argan oil). You’ve probably noticed your products just sitting on top of your strands. When conditioning, apply it to hair that is already saturated with water, work it in sections (squish to condish), and continue to add water. Diluting the conditioner this way helps it get more easily absorbed into the cuticle. Stay away from protein heavy treatments and opt for more hydrating ones and use a hooded dryer since the heat will keep the cuticle open. Pamper your hair every two weeks with a conditioning hair mask that contains avocado oil. Heat coconut oil a few seconds and then massage it on your scalp. For stylers, choose cream based rather than oils. The key is to slow the drying process because the longer the hair is wet, the longer it has to absorb the moisture.
Scrunch Out the Crunch (SOTC)– after your hair is completely dry, grab a scarf or your t-shirt, scarf, or towel and scrunch your hair to get the crunch out. Don’t use your hands as it will make your hair prone to frizz.
Plop– when your hair is soaking wet, apply your products, tip your head upside down, then wrap it up in a t-shirt, scarf, or towel and tie it up for a bit while you get ready. The towel will absorb the extra water and product.
Squish to Condish– get some conditioner/hair product in your hands and when your hair is soaking wet, flip your head over and scrunch the product into your hair.
LOC method – LOC stands for liquids, oils, cream and is best used to keep your hair ultra-moisturized for days. Apply leave-in conditioner first, then oil, then a creamy moisturizer.
TO DRY
You should not be using a terry cloth towel. It creates friction on your hair strands and roughs up the cuticles making your hair prone to frizz. Microfiber is ok, but it too is not the best. Use a cotton t-shirt or a silk scarf.
If blow-drying, you need a diffuser to disperse the air flow evenly into your strands, but only diffuse it to 80% dry – low heat, low air flow. If you want more volume at the roots, you should also get hair clips and clip your hair, so it sticks straight out at the root – most people do this around their face and down their part.
DO NOT TOUCH YOUR HAIR. If you need to SOTC, use a silk scarf or your t-shirt. Touching your hair with your hands makes your hair prone to frizz.
TO SLEEP
When you’re going to sleep, you need to “pineapple” your hair. Take all your hair and put it on the top of your head and secure it. This prevents your curls from getting crushed while you sleep.
You should be sleeping on a silk pillowcase because it reduces friction on the hair which means it reduces frizz.